Posted by: lornasass | January 31, 2009

ON CREATING NEW RECIPES

I am often asked how I go about creating new recipes.  I once tried to take notes about how I went about it, but found that such self-conscious observation created “cook’s block.”  One thing I can say say for sure is that back in the 70s, I was very influenced by a book called THE FLAVOR PRINCIPLE COOKBOOK by Elizabeth Rozin, first published in 1973.

images8In this tome, Rozin differentiates among the world’s great cuisines by calling attention to their predominant flavors.  In fact, she offers formulas for the major flavor combinations used by traditional cooks in about a dozen different countries.  I’ve come to call these combinations “flavor stamps.”

The approach seems obvious, yet apparently no one else had undertaken a cross-cultural survey of cuisines in quite this way before. What became evident to Mrs. Rozin after research through travel and in cookbooks was that every cuisine is based on a predominant theme, plus variations. For example, lemon-oregano is the flavor principle of Greek cookery, and olive oil-tomato, plus garlic, that of southern Italian cuisine. Variations are created when other flavors are added or when one of the major ones is left out.

Rozin concedes that to reduce the world’s cuisines to predominant flavor principles is to paint with rather broad strokes.  She feels, nevertheless, that her formulas enable cooks to understand the essence of a country’s cookery quickly and that this should increase their confidence in preparing dishes from an unfamiliar cuisine. Perhaps more important to me was Rozin’s belief that adventurous cooks can use the flavor principles systematically to come up with combinations and variations of their own.

This is just what Mrs. Rozin does with some of the most fascinating recipes in THE FLAVOR PRINCIPLE COOKBOOK. For example, she takes the Chinese flavor principle of soy sauce plus sherry-ginger and combines it with an Indian curry blend to create an unusually delicious stir-fried vegetable dish. In another recipe, she adds sour cream and caraway seeds, both common flavoring in northern Europe, to pureed eggplant, a vegetable rarely used in that part of the world.

Once I had her invitation to create new recipes in this way, I was off and running.  You’ll see examples of ways I use the “flavor stamp” in many of the recipes in my published books.  For a current example, see the recipe for Mediterranean Quinoa with Broccoli posted a few days ago.  Here I toss the South American grain with flavorings of Southern Europe.  To put it simply, once you have an idea of the principles involved, the possibilities become endless.

THE FLAVOR PRINCIPLE COOKBOOK has never gotten the attention it deserves, but those cooks who know it revere the inspiration it provides.  The book was updated and re-issued in paperback with the title ETHNIC CUISINE:  THE FLAVOR PRINCIPLE COOKBOOK.  Alas, both titles appear to be out of print, but second hand copies are available.


Responses

  1. Hear, hear. I also find The Flavor Principle indispensable in the kitchen. (I own the softcover, Ethnic Cuisine.) I am interested in historical recipes, and in the evolution of American cuisine. I cannot visit the past to taste the cuisine, but I can apply Rozin’s framework to historic cuisines, as well. Thinking in Rozin’s terms lets me fit together the work of food historians with my own experiments to determine the lost flavor principles, and to see how they thread their way into our modern cooking.

    Right now I am working on the flavor principles of cooking in the American South before the Civil War. In savory dishes, meat juices and animal fats were central to the flavor profile, while desserts made lavish use of nutmeg and of lemon. Vanilla and chocolate were practically unknown, and their absence is itself a flavor profile for the modern palate. (www.thevintagecookie.blogspot.com)

    • Brilliant idea to apply the Flavor Principles to historical cookery. Your work sounds fascinating.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Categories

%d bloggers like this: